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Runsheet · Working tool

Factory questions
and expectations

Most production problems aren’t dishonesty. They’re two people who never said the number out loud and assumed different ones. Fill in what you’re expecting and what the factory has actually told you, and this shows where you don’t match yet. Benchmarks are typical for small-batch domestic work — useful in both directions, because the factory has expectations of you too.

Twelve things to agree on

Communication

How quickly will emails get answered during an active project?

Not asked
Typical: 1–2 business days, faster during sampling

Slow replies are the single most common complaint, and almost always a mismatch of expectation rather than neglect. Shops are on the floor, not in the inbox.

Who is the day-to-day contact, on both sides?

Not asked
Typical: one named person each way

A shared inbox means nobody owns your project. On your side, the factory needs one decision-maker — approvals by committee is how sampling stretches by months.

Development and sampling

How long from approved tech pack to first proto sample?

Not asked
Typical: 2–4 weeks domestic

Anything under two weeks usually means they already have a similar block. Over six weeks usually means it’s queued behind production.

How many fit rounds are included before production?

Not asked
Typical: 1–2 included, extra rounds billed

Almost every first-timer needs more rounds than they budgeted. Knowing what’s billable stops the surprise invoice and stops you rushing an approval you’re not happy with.

What does a sample cost per style, excluding the pattern?

Not asked
Typical: $150–300 domestic

Sampling is priced as skilled one-off labour, not as a fraction of a production unit. A sample costing more than a production unit is normal, not a markup.

What does patternmaking and grading cost per style?

Not asked
Typical: $300–600 pattern, $75–200 to grade

This is a one-time cost that belongs spread across the run, and it’s the line most first budgets leave out entirely.

Fabric

Who is buying the fabric?

Not asked
Either works — what matters is that it’s decided

Full package means they buy and you pay a margin on it. CMT means you buy, ship it in, and carry the risk if it’s short. Neither is wrong. Both being assumed is.

What is the fabric lead time?

Not asked
In stock 1–2 weeks · knit or dyed to order 6–12 weeks

Fabric is usually the longest pole and the one nobody schedules around. A knit-to-order program can be longer than the entire production run.

Production

How long is production once the PO is placed and fabric is in house?

Not asked
Typical: 4–6 weeks small batch domestic

The clock starts when fabric lands, not when you place the order. Confirm which one they mean or your dates will be weeks out.

What overage or underage will be shipped and billed?

Not asked
Typical: ±5–10%, billed as shipped

You will not receive exactly the number you ordered. That’s normal in cut and sew. Knowing the tolerance protects your unit costing and your size run.

What defect rate is considered acceptable?

Not asked
Typical: 2–5% of the run

Some percentage of any run is unsellable. Price it in rather than discovering it at receiving, and agree now what happens to seconds.

Commercial

What are the payment terms?

Not asked
Typical: 50% deposit, 50% before shipping

The most important line in the whole conversation. Milestone splits are common and fine. Full payment up front, especially to a personal account, is where money disappears.

Benchmarks are typical ranges for small-batch domestic production, not rules. A shop outside a range isn’t doing anything wrong — it just means the number is worth a conversation rather than an assumption. Ready to have that conversation? Browse verified factories →