Runsheet · Working tool
Most production problems aren’t dishonesty. They’re two people who never said the number out loud and assumed different ones. Fill in what you’re expecting and what the factory has actually told you, and this shows where you don’t match yet. Benchmarks are typical for small-batch domestic work — useful in both directions, because the factory has expectations of you too.
Twelve things to agree on
Communication
How quickly will emails get answered during an active project?
Not askedSlow replies are the single most common complaint, and almost always a mismatch of expectation rather than neglect. Shops are on the floor, not in the inbox.
Who is the day-to-day contact, on both sides?
Not askedA shared inbox means nobody owns your project. On your side, the factory needs one decision-maker — approvals by committee is how sampling stretches by months.
Development and sampling
How long from approved tech pack to first proto sample?
Not askedAnything under two weeks usually means they already have a similar block. Over six weeks usually means it’s queued behind production.
How many fit rounds are included before production?
Not askedAlmost every first-timer needs more rounds than they budgeted. Knowing what’s billable stops the surprise invoice and stops you rushing an approval you’re not happy with.
What does a sample cost per style, excluding the pattern?
Not askedSampling is priced as skilled one-off labour, not as a fraction of a production unit. A sample costing more than a production unit is normal, not a markup.
What does patternmaking and grading cost per style?
Not askedThis is a one-time cost that belongs spread across the run, and it’s the line most first budgets leave out entirely.
Fabric
Who is buying the fabric?
Not askedFull package means they buy and you pay a margin on it. CMT means you buy, ship it in, and carry the risk if it’s short. Neither is wrong. Both being assumed is.
What is the fabric lead time?
Not askedFabric is usually the longest pole and the one nobody schedules around. A knit-to-order program can be longer than the entire production run.
Production
How long is production once the PO is placed and fabric is in house?
Not askedThe clock starts when fabric lands, not when you place the order. Confirm which one they mean or your dates will be weeks out.
What overage or underage will be shipped and billed?
Not askedYou will not receive exactly the number you ordered. That’s normal in cut and sew. Knowing the tolerance protects your unit costing and your size run.
What defect rate is considered acceptable?
Not askedSome percentage of any run is unsellable. Price it in rather than discovering it at receiving, and agree now what happens to seconds.
Commercial
What are the payment terms?
Not askedThe most important line in the whole conversation. Milestone splits are common and fine. Full payment up front, especially to a personal account, is where money disappears.
Benchmarks are typical ranges for small-batch domestic production, not rules. A shop outside a range isn’t doing anything wrong — it just means the number is worth a conversation rather than an assumption. Ready to have that conversation? Browse verified factories →